Conrad Kain (August 10, 1883–February 2, 1934[1]) was an Austrian mountain guide who guided extensively in Europe, Canada, and New Zealand, and was responsible for the first ascents of more than 60 routes in British Columbia. He is particularly known for pioneering climbs in the Purcell Mountains and the first ascents of Mount Robson (1913), Mount Louis (1916) and Bugaboo Spire (1916).[2]
Kain was born in Nasswald, Austria. After a difficult start to his life, he moved to Canada in 1909 to lead climbs at the Alpine Club of Canada's Lake O'Hara camp. Conrad Kain is credited with over 60 first ascents but his most notable first ascent was Mount Robson in 1913 with Albert MacCarthy and William Foster. There is evidence to suggest, however, that Kain openly acknowledged that his ascent of Mount Robson in 1913 was not the first ascent, but the second.[3] The pre-Kain ascent remains a matter of debate between Kain/Mt. Robson scholars.
Conrad wrote an autobiography titled Where the Clouds Can Go where he describes his tough years while growing up in Austria as well as his 25 years working variously as a guide for The Alpine Club of Canada, a hunter outfitter, and an assistant to W.O Wheeler for the Geographic Survey of Canada.[4]
Conrad Kain climbed Mount Louis for the last time on his 50th birthday, and died six months later. The marker on his grave reads "A guide of great spirit." He died in Cranbrook BC of encephalitis.
In 1934, J. Monroe Thorington named Mount Kain in Conrad's honor. The Alpine Club of Canada maintains an alpine hut (the Conrad Kain hut) in the Bugaboos where Kain also made a number of first ascents, including Bugaboo Spire, the most difficult alpine climb in Canada until the 1940s.
To commemorate the 100th anniversary of Kain's arrival in Canada, the Conrad Kain Centennial Society was formed in the upper Columbia Valley in 2007 to celebrate his achievements and to develop legacy projects in his memory.
He is buried in Cranbrook, BC.